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Burger Mini-Review: Louies Modern

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Brisket Burger, $14
Louies Modern
1289 N. Palm Ave., Sarasota
552-9688, louiesmodern.com

When this well-stacked, hefty burger appeared at the table, I was expecting to find it a bit of a mess to eat and a bit of a mess of flavors. Fried onions cascade out the sides, shredded lettuce clings tenaciously to the melted cheese and Louies' "beef booster sauce" drips out as soon as you try to pick it up. Thankfully, the bun -- seemingly a sort of dense brioche, not too rich -- is substantial enough to maintain structural integrity in spite of the stack of toppings.

Surprisingly, the meat holds up as well. The patty is loosely hand-formed, well-seasoned, seared crisp on the outside and a perfect medium-rare pink inside, with enough serious beef flavor to shine through all the other stuff. Get a big enough bite of that patty and the rest of the toppings do their jobs by merely accenting the meat.

It's a great burger, with just two problems. First, Louies' sauce is fairly innocuous, until you get a bit that contains preserved lemon, which is pungent and sharp enough to overwhelm your tastebuds for a minute or two. Second, Louies' fries are doused in a combination of garlic, asiago cheese and rosemary which is tasty enough for a few bites, but quickly overstays its welcome.

Still, this is a burger that just about deserves its well-over $10 price tag.

May is Burger Month here at Ticket and we want to know where you go for beef on a bun. Go to our Burger Month page to see other reviews, read about making your own excellent burgers at home, or tell us about your favorite burger below - 

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Brian Ries

Brian Ries is the editor of ticketsarasota.com.
Last modified: September 13, 2013
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