Cheap Eats: Meat-fest at Alpine Steakhouse

Eating Companion (EC) and I are meeting some friends at the famous Alpine Steakhouse, home of the (in)famous Turducken (“As Seen on the Food Network!”). As a cub reporter I got sent out to interview Alpine's crew while they watched the episode of Guy Fieri's “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives” air live. A few months later my own dear Poppa decided the Turducken would be the perfect surprise treat for Thanksgiving, and, well... Let's just say it didn't go over well. The turducken on the episode looked gorgeous, but in person it was a mess, with dry spots and soggy pockets, tough bits and undercooked areas.

But we're here to give the place a proper assessment, as we've been told time and time again that their burgers are killer and that their Philly is top shelf. Inside the place has a German or Bavarian butcher shop feel — they do dry-aged Prime steaks, veal, fresh seafood, a case full of deli salads, “Imported Sauerkraut,” a good selection of European beers, and a fairly priced lunch menu of burgers and specialty sandwiches.

We order some iced teas and decide on some sandwiches: a Philly ($6), a 1/2-pound Alpine Bacon Cheeseburger with a side of German potato salad ($8.95), a French Dip with cucumber salad ($10.95), a “New York Style Reuben” (which I believe indicates the use of corned beef, but is there another kind?) with fries ($8.95), and, for good measure, a Turducken sandwich (served with cheddar cheese, gravy and cranberry sauce, $6). EC is looking over my shoulder at something apparently very exciting. I can hear what sounds like flesh being hacked apart just behind me.

“What exactly is going on behind me?” I ask. He takes a second to respond. “Meat,” he says. “Meat is happening behind you. It's amazing to watch.”

The place is quiet and clean inside, busy for a weekday. The waitstaff is superbly friendly and all seem to be in suspiciously good moods.

The food takes no time at all, and we're off, divvying sammies, reaching across the table for fries and potato salad.

The Philly is, as promised, unreal, a mess of Cheez Whiz and juicy strip steak, onions and peppers, on a soft Amoroso-style roll. One of the better I've had in these parts, certainly, and the best $6 steak I can remember.

The burger is cooked textbook medium-rare, pink, juicy and stunning, the meat tender, with a crunchy, smoky crust. The German potato salad is simple perfection, the potatoes still firm, dressed with olive oil and what must be a bit of vinegar. It's a table hit and gone in seconds. We consider ordering more, but we've got our work cut out for us here.

The French dip is a pile of thin-sliced prime rib, the hoagie crusty and warm, perfect for dunking in the smooth, rich jus. The cucumber salad is odd, like very little I've ever had before, thin-sliced cucumbers drenched in a yogurt and dill sauce, mild and cool and refreshing, though it looks a bit intense.

The Reuben is rich and greasy and perfect, though they go a bit heavy on what is a particularly tangy 1000-island dressing and superb sauerkraut, which makes for a rather messy, albeit gluttonous sandwich. The fries are thin (though they offer “steak fries” as well, if you prefer), golden brown and crusty.

Which brings us to the Turducken. I brought the sandwich to my mouth with all the skepticism in the world, having been burned on one of my favorite holiday meals. But one bite made me a convert. Rich, moist, dense and meaty, way less gamey than I remember, the stuffing savory in the best way, though I would recommend going with either the gravy or the cranberry sauce, and not both. Trust me. It's an experience any Sarasotan must have, and considering the $6 price tag it's a cheap one.

For a meat-fest of a lunch, Alpine is hard to beat. We'll be back to try the Cuban and save room for what is rumored to be some seriously delicious hot strudel.