Cheap Eats: Blu' Island Bistro's breakfast brilliance

French toast at Blu Island Bistro

Late in the morning and Eating Companion (EC) and I are pulling up to the Blu' Island Bistro, on the Island of Venice, right across the street from Venice Hospital. Blu' Island operates out of what was once the lobby of an old hotel, though an actual hotel does operate around it, which is very strange, as if they just sort of downsized their lobby and rented this little place out.

There is an outside dining patio out front under what was once the drop-off and pick-up area. We're here because I've recently been complaining, in this column and in my daily life, about the lack of good spots that offer their breakfast menu all day, and a trustworthy source has told me to ignore the odd location and trust him, that Blu' Island is as good as it gets in V-Town.

The interior space is a remarkable improvement from the repurposed exterior, bright and clean and open, tall ceilings and old wood floors. This place seems like it was built in the '60s or '60s, for sure, and has a great feel to it. We take a table in the back dining area, which is apparently on its own thermostat and several degrees warmer than we'd like. The waitress notices our damp brows and kindly tells us she'll kick the A/C on. We're off to a good start.

Though the other diners look like they are enjoying serious lunches — big, colorful salads, massive sandwiches — we happily peruse the breakfast menu, which at first glance is really thoughtful and interesting, with a number of intriguing omelet variations, quiches, as well as some unorthodox takes on breakfast sandwiches. The names of each of their items can be misleading -- a BLT with Fried Egg actually comprises an egg, a fried green tomato, pecan smoked bacon, arugula, and a basil-garlic aioli ($7.50), while the Blu' Island Egg Sandwich involves ham and gruyere cheese on grilled sourdough with a basted egg ($6.95). There are some very delicious sounding items on this menu.

We opt for some coffee and Dave's Favorite Italian Eggs (eggs scrambled with roasted red peppers, fresh basil, mozzarella and parmesan cheese ($6,75 w/ bacon and rye toast); a gorgeously named Meat Omelet (pecan smoked bacon, Boar's Head ham, country sausage and cheddar, $7.50); an order of the Banana French Toast (thick-sliced bread dipped in “banana batter” and grilled, $6.50); as well as the aforementioned two sandwiches.

A very solemn and sour older couple takes a seat behind us and immediately begins complaining to our sweet and kind waitress that it is just way, way, way too cold in here and would she turn the A/C up, my goodness. Our waitress looks at us, smiles with the sad resignation of service industry people everywhere. You can't make everyone happy.

But hopefully the looks on our faces as she drops off our meals offer a bit of redemption. The presentation is superb, everything smells amazing.

The BLT with Fried Egg might be the best breakfast sandwich I've had in months, super rich and complex, with spicy arugula, tangy tomato and the earthiness of the pecan smoked bacon. And then of course the garlic-basil aioli, goodness. It's a delight.

The Blu' Island Egg Sandwich is also terrific, gruyere a surprisingly nice touch, the vague sweetness working with the ham to do wonders for the little sandwich. And of course I have to ask just how one bastes an egg, which apparently involves cooking an egg sunnyside up and -- just like a turkey -- it is basted using hot fat to cook the top. This place has it going on. I'd like to know where the chef cut his teeth. The woman behind us is now asking why there is so much “nonsense” on the menu. We're too happy and full-mouthed to even consider turning around and kindly asking her to kiss our grits and be quiet.

The Meat Omelet is exactly what's to be expected, a festival of savory meats in great quantity and exactly what EC was looking for. Dave's Favorite eggs are kind of awesome, a recipe I'll definitely be stealing to make at home, the parmesan adding a pleasant, dry saltiness to roasted peppers and fresh, zesty basil.

By the time we get around to the French toast we're gutted, but the it looks too good. It's tender, but dense, with a country flavor reminiscent of really good from-scratch banana bread.

We settle up, make a point to compliment our waitress on her excellent service and smile hugely and indignantly at the woman behind us, but she isn't looking at us. She's chewing silently, focused on her plate, apparently enjoying her “nonsense.”