Cheap Eats: Gentile Brothers has primo Philly cheesesteaks

Thursday afternoon and Eating Companion and I are excitedly strolling into the Gentile Brothers’ new cheesesteak and hoagie shop on U.S. 41, just south of Stickney Point Road. Having passed through the City of Brotherly Love more than a few times in our younger years, we’re always eager when some Philadelphians head south and set up shop. Proud as residents of that famous city are, rarely will they advertise authentic cheesesteaks unless they are in fact just that. If it says authentic, it better taste as close to the ones Pat Olivieri began slinging out of his hot dog stand or out of his shop on 9th Street and Passyunk some 80-years ago.

The shop is located in one of those anonymous stripmalls that sort of veer off perpendicularly from 41 and house any number of accountants, gun shops, etc. If you weren’t looking for it, you’d probably miss the sign. Inside we’re greeted by a small, bright, and open space, the walls decorated with Philly-centric memorabilia from their historically fantastic sports teams. There are two comically large cans of Cheez Whiz on a shelf just east of the counter.

The menu is small and simple, with cheesesteaks clearly the focus. There are a few basic hoagies — Italian, “Mixed Cheese” — but a number of the specialty hoagie options catch our eye: The “Broad Street Bully” advertises a chicken cutlet with Provolone, broccoli rabe, and hot peppers ($8.50); the Luca claims some Italian tuna (either from the area around Palermo, Italy, or made to mimic the preservation methods used in that area for centuries), with olive oil, Provolone, and roasted peppers ($8.25). There’s also some appetizers and sides, chicken nuggets and Mozzarella sticks and the like.

We order a classic steak with Whiz and onions ($7.95, ask for it like this: “cheesesteak-Whiz-wit"); and a chicken steak wit-onions and provolone ($7.95). We also decide to try out a South Philly (chicken cutlet, Mozzarella, and roasted peppers, $8.25) and a Yo Cuz (prosciutto, Mozzarella, roasted peppers, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar, $8.25).

We grab a seat in front of the window. The place smells incredible, the scent of seasoned meat and cheese filling the small place each time a fresh one is thrown on the grill. The whole order is done in less than five minutes.

We tear into them quick-like. We split the classic steak first, for good measure. The first thing we notice is the perfection of the bread. It’s soft and steamy, super fresh smelling, about as close to a fresh Amoroso roll as I’ve had this far from the Liberty Bell. The classic steak is a goopy, savory mess. The steak is well-seasoned, and Gentile Brothers doesn’t skimp on the Whiz or onions, which threaten to squirt out onto your hands and lap with each bite and requires you to sort of bend way out over the table for each bite.

EC grabs the chicken steak next, something I have never had the pleasure of trying, and splits it in half. For as messy as they may be, the sammies are remarkably portable, and wrapped tight in foil and paper, they’d be perfect take home treats for games. The chicken is really tender, with a black pepper seasoning that would have been a little overpowered by Whiz, but is divine with the mild, sharp Provolone. The chicken steak stays together a little better, and I have to say I might actually prefer it to the classic, though it is a touch salty.

At this point we are a little jaded, and the other two sammies have taken a backseat to the steaks, but for journalistic integrity we split them up and give them a go. And glad we did. Though the Yo Cuz isn’t anything to dismiss out of hand, the prosciutto generously stacked and supremely salty, the South Philly is a surprise treat, with chicken cutlets pounded thin and tenderized, breaded thick and fried golden brown. The fresh Mozzarella and roasted peppers complete the sammy nicely.

We are totally psyched on the place’s whole operation, and will definitely be back to nab some of these for game day dinners, and grab a catering menu for our next party.