Restaurant Review: Demetrios Pizza House

No lines right now, but don't let that fool you.

Since Demetrios’ has operated in Bradenton since 1976, it can rightly be called an institution. (I have operated in Bradenton since 1976, too, but nobody calls me an institution; they just say I should be in one.)

It’s a family-owned business, started by Demetrios and Helen, and operated now by their son Gus. You’ll find the usual array of pasta and pizza, with a little Greek influence in salads and soups. You know the type — families flock to it.

I hadn’t been to Demetrios’ in about 15 years, not because I didn’t like the place but because it was always so darn crowded. Granted, pizza chains were not as prevalent then, but there was still a line at the door when I visited on a recent Sunday.

We shared a variety of dishes, starting with the sausage and onion pizza ($11.15). The cheese was generous and the onions were nicely sautéed and caramelized. The crust was not soggy, too often the case when you add extra ingredients.

A small Greek salad was tart and crunchy, a nice accompaniment to our pizza. For $2.75, the bowl was packed with iceberg lettuce, fresh tomatoes, cucumber, Greek olives, feta cheese, anchovies, Greek peppers and onions. You could easily make a nice light lunch out of this salad.

We had heard good things about the manicotti ($9.95), which consisted of ricotta cheese rolled in a pasta noodle and covered with tomato sauce and cheese. We found the dish on the pricey side and also a little bland. It was, however, cooked perfectly.

We took home a cup of chicken orzo soup ($2.50) and that was a big mistake, although not because the soup was bad. I tried a spoonful before getting into the car and it was delicious, the chicken and pasta picking up each other’s flavors. Unfortunately, chicken orzo soup does not fare so well when it capsizes over the carpet and a reporter’s notebook. (Which nicely explains away any inconsistencies in this review.)

Demetrios’, however, is not splashy and there are no clowns jumping around to spill your meal. The food is satisfying and consistent, which is something to be said when you’ve been at it for 35 years.